Amsterdam, Venice of the North
by Greg Petty

The last leg of our trip to Europe was to go directly to Amsterdam from Paris. The modern sleek train we took that Tuesday morning was comfortable and not very crowded. Aaron took advantage of this space by stretching out and sleeping most of the way!

However, Barb and I enjoyed the view offered by the nice large windows and watched the French, Belgian and Dutch countryside go by. We went through Brussels and The Hague along the way. Even though the day was gray and gloomy, we realized it would have been nice to have a few more days to visit these important European cities.

Houseboat, Amsterdam

Our train arrived at Amsterdam’s Central Station and after a little difficulty locating a taxi, we were soon on our way to the Marriott Amsterdam on Stadhouderskade. This modern and luxurious hotel is within walking distance of the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh Museum, beautiful Vondel Park and for all you beer lovers, the Heineken museum and brewery! Oh, I almost forgot, the Casino is just across the canal in front of the Marriott.

Our first pleasant surprise was that nearly everyone we met spoke excellent English. This surprise was surpassed only by how pleasant and helpful everyone was to these three wide-eyed Americans in their midst.

Transportation was also easily available and we suggest that you buy a 24, 48 or 72 hour GVB pass which will allow you to ride the buses, trams, metro and ferry boats to any Amsterdam location. Although the city looks daunting to traverse, the system is extensive and we highly recommend it. We ended up walking to many places with the aid of the tram. Unlike Rome, in Amsterdam the hazard for pedestrians is the bicyclists. In a very short time, you get accustomed to listening for the ring, ring, ring from the handlebar bells of the kamikaze bike riders. Which way should I jump now?

The next morning we woke up to a sunny and warm day. We were delighted as this was the third week in October and we had visions of sleet and snow as we tried to see all the sights. All the power and glory of the Netherlands in the 16th and 17th centuries is evident through Amsterdam’s famous architecture and public buildings. During this time the world’s largest economic and naval power was also one of the few democracies established by its own citizens. After the defeat of Napoleon, a monarchy was established for the Netherlands by the victorious powers. The descendant of the House of Orange, the much-loved Queen Beatrix, occupies the throne today.

The Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam

We bounded down the street to the Rijksmuseum. The building was designed by Pierre Cuypers and completed in 1885. It is an Amsterdam landmark and is currently undergoing a major renovation. The museum has more than a million pieces of art; however, we were unable to visit the rest of the museum due to the renovations. Thanks to the Philips Corporation, the golden age of Dutch art is open in the wing recently remodeled and renamed the Philips wing.

The exhibit is entitled Rijksmuseum, The Masterpieces. The exhibit does an excellent job of displaying art as well as decorative arts and the history of the Netherlands in the Golden Age. The exhibit begins with various art, sculptor and craft works that demonstrate the power and global reach of its naval, commercial fleets and trading ventures. The surprise of this first part of the exhibit was the incredible doll house of Petronella Oortman. The houses were a status symbol of the era and they were EXACT duplicates in 1:9 size of every object in a home. The materials were the same as those used in the original life-sized pieces. The doll houses thus give us a direct glimpse into the life, furniture and daily objects found in a wealthy merchant’s home. The house can be viewed from a ladder so you can closely inspect each of the three floors containing the amazingly detailed chairs, beds, pictures and rugs in each room.

The stars of the show are the extensive holdings of works by Rembrandt, Frans Hals and Vermeer. You will recognize many of the paintings here but until you see these artistic gems up close, it is hard to appreciate the luminosity and quality of the paintings. You experience the frivolity and joy in The Serenade by Judith Lyster and her contemporary, Hal’s The Merry Drinker. All of Rembrandt’s portraits are amazing works of technical perfection. It seems as if the person could step right out of the frame and begin a conversation with you. Rembrandt achieved enormous fame and wealth in his life but he died with his art no longer appreciated and having lost most of his loved ones during his life.

If the Rijksmuseum does not overload your senses, you can visit the Van Gogh Museum which is directly behind the Rijksmuseum. We actually took a break between museums and visited the Van Gogh museum the following day. The museum contains more than 200 works of art by Van Gogh and an extensive collection of other 19th –century painters and sculptors.

Van Gogh was a self-taught painter and the exhibit begins with his early works as he tried to break away from his parents and go on his own. He concentrated on landscapes and live models. He combined these two in his studies of weavers behind their looms and farmers at work in the fields. The exhibit proceeds in chronological order. You will find all your favorites here: several Self-portraits; the Potato Eaters; Wheatfield with Crows and, my favorites, the small pictures of shoes set or thrown where they lie on the floor. Unlike Rembrandt, Van Gogh never achieved fame in his lifetime. He had nothing to lose except the love of his brother Theo and his friend Paul Gaugin, and he ultimately did take his own life. Here in Amsterdam we viewed the glory of two men’s artistic genius and ruminated on the sad fate of both men.

There is another place you need to visit in Amsterdam… The Anne Frank House.
It is has been restored as a museum with a modern first floor with exhibits and a bookstore. The remainder of the house was left untouched except the exhibit materials. It is a somber reminder of the horrible acts mankind can impose on his fellow man.

But Amsterdam is a happy place and here you will find a liberal atmosphere for “doing your own thing.” I have not seen so many “head” shops with “smoking” accessories since the 1960s! There is also the famous Red Light district for those of you adventurous enough to visit it. Amsterdam is also a great place for shopping. If you love furniture and modern design, this is the place for you.

Our time in Europe had come to an end. We happily returned home with many wonderful memories and some thoughts of returning to our favorite places for more extended visits. Amsterdam definitely made the return-to list.

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