Discovering North Carolina

Weekending in the North Carolina High Country

by Carol Timblin
September 2009

If you’re thinking about doing an annual fall trek to experience the cool air, see the beautiful autumn colors, and enjoy a variety of activities, consider heading west toward the North Carolina High Country./p>

Reached via I-40 and US 421 from the Triangle area (about a four-hour drive), the area is made up of five beautiful counties — Wilkes, Allegheny, Ashe, Watauga, and Avery. It includes the charming towns of Wilkesboro, Sparta, West Jefferson, Boone, Blowing Rock, and Banner Elk.

During a recent weekend jaunt we made the Broyhill Inn and Conference Center at Appalachian State University our headquarters. Located on a hill overlooking Boone and within view of the town’s newest windmill, the inn is convenient to attractions, shops, and restaurants, though secluded and private. After settling in our room, we headed for the Boone Drug Store and Mast General Store on King Street (the main drag). Founded in 1919, the drug store hasn’t changed much except over the years for expanding its dining area. In these days of big drugstore chains, it seems to be holding its own with several locations (though prescriptions are no longer filled at the original store). It’s a great place to meet the locals and enjoy a casual meal at affordable prices. The Mast General Store across the street is one of seven stores in the chain that’s expanded to other towns in the mountains, as well as Upstate South Carolina and East Tennessee. The original gem is in nearby Valle Crucis — definitely worth the journey.

The Jones House, an arts center where you can see changing exhibits and enjoy free music on Friday evenings in the summertime, is also on King Street. The Turchin Center, one of the town’s newest and most sophisticated attractions, is several blocks east. A vital part of the University, it features works by regional, national, and international artists and provides opportunities for all ages to experience the visual arts.

After walking around town and shopping for several hours, we had hungry appetites for some good country cooking at the Daniel Boone Inn, one of the town’s oldest dining establishments. The inn and the town were named for the famous pioneer who passed through the area on his way to Kentucky. Soon after we sat down, heaping platters of fried chicken, country ham, fresh cooked vegetables, and biscuits arrived along with unlimited servings of sweet iced tea. We were glad we had room for the fruit cobbler at the end of the meal. Delicious!

We spent the next day in West Jefferson, sampling curds from the Ashe County Cheese Factory and checking out the art galleries and antiques shops. Once an agricultural town, West Jefferson has transitioned into a lovely home for the arts. The arts movement began here in the 1980s when Ben Long painted his famous frescos in St. Mary’s Episcopal Church. Holy Trinity Episcopal in nearby Glendale Springs is home to Long’s famous rendition of "The Last Supper." Following a sumptuous lunch at the Shatley Springs Inn in Crumpler, which included a sampling of its famous water, we boarded canoes for a trip down the New River. The day ended with a gourmet dinner at the River House at Grassy Creek, featuring several courses paired with red and white wines from Thistle Mountain Winery. Located in Laurel Springs (Milepost 246 off the Blue Ridge Parkway), the winery offers tours and tastings.

On Saturday we motored over the mountain to Banner Elk, a college/tourist town that’s home to the Banner Elk Winery. Operated by Dr. Richard Wolfe and his wife Dede, the winery’s high elevation makes it possible to produce wines that are similar to those of the Burgundy and Rhone regions of France. Old blueberry bushes on the property usually yield a good crop that goes in the blueberry wine that flies off the shelves. The winery offers free concerts in the summer and hosts several wine dinners throughout the year. Some visitors opt to stay overnight in the luxurious villa on property.

Through Banner Elk via NC 184 and up steep NC 194, we continued onward to Beech Mountain. With an elevation of 5,506, it is the highest incorporated town east of the Mississippi. The resort community offers skiing in the winter and a variety of activities, including golf and tennis, in the summer. Though Beech Mountain has a municipal building and a chamber of commerce, its real hub is Fred’s General Mercantile. Established in 1979, the store prides itself on the slogan — "If we don’t have it, you don’t need it!"

Though Banner Elk has several great restaurants, we returned to Boone for a steak dinner at The Peddler. Then, it was off to dreamland at the Broyhill Inn. We stayed around on Sunday for their wonderful brunch featuring an intoxicating spread of salads, soups, several entrees and vegetables, and delectable desserts. By the time we left Boone, we could easily have napped for the rest of the day.

En route home, we stopped at Raffaldini Winery, one of five wineries in the Swan Creek area off Highway 421. We took time to sample several wines and enjoy views of the beautiful mountains, now in the distance.

For more information, call North Carolina High Country Host at 800.438.7500 or visit mountainsofnc.com

Carol Timblin vacations frequently in the High Country. She is the author of several travel books and hundreds of travel articles that have appeared in magazines and newspapers.

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