A Civil War Odyssey
War’s End in Virginia and North Carolina

by Greg Petty
July 2009

We are fortunate to live in a state that played a critical role in many of our nation’s defining events. North Carolina always could be counted on to come to the aid of her sister state Virginia, the home of Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe and Robert E. Lee. North Carolina’s official state account of the service rendered to the Confederate States of America Tar Heels: Five Points in the Record of North Carolina claimed and proved her troops were "First at Bethel, farthest to the front at Gettysburg and Chickamauga, and last an Appomattox."

North Carolina contributed 128,191 troops to the war and accounted for one-ninth of all troops. Because her troops were well-respected and proven fighters, North Carolinians participated in almost all of the war’s definitive battles. As a result she suffered 40,635 casualties (dead or wounded) and more than one-quarter of all the CSA battlefield deaths.

The Civil War is the definitive period of American history and the following tour takes advantage of our location to visit battle sites in both states crucial to the war and its ending. America lost 620,000 lives — more than almost all our other war casualties combined. The war has so shaped our national consciousness, economic, political, racial and social life that it has entered the realm of mythology. Its legacies are many including the 13th, 14th and 15th Amendments, the elevation of Lincoln to one of our greatest Presidents and a legend, and sadly, the delay caused by Reconstruction to uphold the principles for which so much precious blood was shed.

This driving tour close to home is designed to take the traveler to Civil War sites in southern and central Virginia that end up in Durham. Along the way we will visit important museums, battlefield sites crucial to the conclusion of the war and visits to Madison and Jefferson’s homes. There are also a few pleasant diversions along the way so all you non-Civil War buffs take heart and come along for the ride. I did this trip in three days but that is because I have previously visited some of the battlefield sites along the way. To take advantage of a full tour I would plan on about five or six days.

Our first stop is just south of Petersburg, VA so take I-85 north to exit 63A just south of Petersburg to the Pamplin Historical Park. It is home to The National Museum of the Civil War Soldier. It is built on 422 acres that belonged to the founder Robert B. Pamplin ancestors during the Civil War. Mr. Pamplin’s foundation is responsible for saving the site of Grant’s breakthrough of Lee’s defensive line at Petersburg that caused him to flee westward and for Richmond to be vacated by Jefferson Davis and his cabinet.

In addition to the battlefield, the Pamplin offers two museums, antebellum homes, a slave life exhibit, costumed living history demonstrations, educational programs and the Civil War Adventure Camp where you can spend a daytime or overnight living the authentic life of a soldier. What a great way to make the war come alive for you and your grandchildren. Don’t miss the live firing demonstration. The presenter/actors are all authentically dressed and explain in detail the process of their battle tactics which were shaped by the loading, firing and accuracy of the rifles in their possession. I also recommend seeing the interactive exhibit Duty Called Me Here: The Common Soldier’s Experience in the Civil War. You select a soldier (Of course I chose a Tar Heel) and follow him throughout the exhibit. At the end you learn the fate of your soldier. Other recommended exhibits are the Slave House and accompanying film, and the photography exhibit at the Battlefield Center. For directions and more info visit pamplinpark.org or call 877.726.7546.

If you have not visited the Crater Battlefield at Petersburg make that your next destination. If you have, head into Richmond to the American Civil War Center at Historic Tredegar. This museum is on the site of the Tredegar Gun Foundry and does a superb job of incorporating state of the art interactive displays, timelines, artifacts and maps from the beginning to the end of the war. It is arranged by years and its special mission is to tell the whole story of each side in an even-handed way but also incorporates the African-American perspective. Its moniker is In The Cause of Liberty and it is very instructive. Speaking of instructive, the museum has an active calendar of events and hosts many school groups to provide them information and understanding of the war’s impact on our society. The museum is located at 500 Tredegar St. Go to the site at tredegar.org or call 804.780.1865. While you are here, go next door to the National Park Service Visitor Center at Tredegar to learn about the foundry, Richmond’s pivotal role in the war and area battlefields.

Other Richmond sites are the Museum of the Confederacy containing the largest collection of Civil War artifacts in the world, Monument Avenue and the Virginia Capital designed by Jefferson. If you are ready for some outdoor activity, go a short way north on I-95 to the Mechanicsville Pike and head toward Cold Harbor. Lee’s army came here after Spotsylvania to keep Grant from crossing the James River and preventing a siege (which later took place at Petersburg). They beat the Union forces there and assumed commanding positions. The resultant disastrous Union assault proved as costly as the horrific charge at Marye’s Hill in Fredericksburg.

Continue north on 1-95 to Fredericksburg, VA. It played a crucial role in the war as it was halfway between Washington and Richmond. It was also a prize because it had the Rappahannock River and the railroad, both crucial to supplying any army trying to either protect or capture Richmond. The battles fought within 20 miles of its borders claimed 100,000 casualties (killed or wounded), making it the bloodiest landscape in America.Many thanks to Karen Hedelt at The Department of Tourism, City of Fredericksburg for getting me organized to make the most of my time in the area. The good folks at Homewood Suites just off Carl Silver Parkway provided me gracious accommodations because Fredericksburg would be the center of sightseeing for the next two or three days. Homewood Suites at 1040 Hospitality Lane is a great location because it is close to Hwy 3 that will be your conduit to both downtown Fredericksburg and The Wilderness to the west.

Fredericksburg is famous on its own for the disastrous Union assault by Burnside on Marye’s Heights, the Sunken Road and street-to-street fighting in December of 1862. It was only supposed to be a diversionary attack but cost 8,000 Union troops. Other battlefields to visit here are Chancellorsville, The Wilderness and Spotsylvania.

Head to downtown and go to the Visitors Center at 706 Caroline Street. Pick up the walking tour pamphlets and get the Handbook of Historic Fredericksburg. The tour will take you through the battle and all of the historic structures in the town. You can easily spend the entire day between the tour and the Visitor Center at Fredericksburg National Cemetery and Battlefield. Be sure to see the movie and take the tour of the Sunken Road and Wall below Marye’s Heights. If you arrive early as I did, tour the cemetery and the monuments there.

If someone in your family needs a break from the war sites they can easily stay downtown and go to the delightful antique stores, art galleries and boutiques. Have them keep the Handbook so they can read about all the historic buildings they will pass. If you want a quick lunch and a cold beer about midday stop into The Rec Center at 213 William St. It is a lively local restaurant, pool and music hall. If you stay until the evening and desire an exceptional meal, I suggest La Petite Auberge at 311 William St. The Renault family at La Petite serves French cuisine and cocktails in a delightful environment. The food, where possible, is locally grown and the service is excellent.

The next part of the trip includes visits to The Wilderness and Spotsylvania. 1864 was the year that spelled the demise of the Confederacy, and it was for a couple of main reasons. The Union had changed its battle tactics with Sherman’s objective being the destruction of the South’s ability to support a war machine and Grant’s single-minded determination to keep Meade on Lee’s trail everywhere he went to reduce his army and rob it from re-supplying itself — And of course, the North’s capacity to produce and provision war materiel to its army. The battles of the Wilderness and Spotsylvania were really the last great efforts of Lee’s army to keep itself from being besieged and its movements restricted.

Head west on Highway 3 to Hwy 20 (The Constitution Highway) and follow the signs to the Wilderness Battlefield Exhibit Shelter. Pick up the brochure and take the tour. The battle here at Saunders Field shows you the confusion, lack of communication and chaos a battle can cause resulting in horrible casualties. Follow the numbered battle signs in your car and stop to read each marker. The last stop leaves you at Brock Road (Hwy 613), turn right and follow it a little over six miles to Spotsylvania. Stop at the Exhibit Shelter to get the map and go to the third stop, the Bloody Angle. The tour guide will explain the terrific battle and heroics that took place here, and you do need the guide to understand how the battle evolved.

The next to the last battle site on the tour will be Appomattox; take the Constitution Highway (Hwy 20) straight south down the Piedmont of Virginia. It is a breathtaking drive and is among some of the most scenic places I have visited in America.

Along the way are Montpelier and Monticello, homes of friends James Madison and Thomas Jefferson respectively. I recommend the tour of both properties and you can intersperse it with a tour of some of Virginia’s finest vineyards. Before you leave on this trip visit monticellowinetrail.com/sections/winetrails.html and plan out your own itinerary. Monticello is impressive for both the home and grounds itself but also the newly completed Visitors Center and Smith Education Center. For more info go to montpelier.org and monticello.org.

Take Highway 24 south to Appomattox. After the siege breakthrough at Petersburg Lee was forced to take his remaining army (about 25,00 men) west and south to try to meet up with Joe Johnston’s troops here in North Carolina facing Sherman. He became trapped and realized that he was facing over 100,000 Union troops and had few provisions or food left to fight them with. On April 9, 1865 he surrendered to Grant at the McLean House at Appomattox Courthouse. The Park Service has done a superb job of reconstructing the Village so take your time to see the site. The first act of Grant was to send for food provisions to feed the Confederates and to instruct his troops not to cheer as these men were now our countrymen again.

Take Hwy 47 to its intersection with I-85 and head home to Durham. The last stop will be Bennett Place the site of Joseph E. Johnston’s surrender to Sherman, nchistoricsites.org/bennett. After the defeat at Bentonville, Johnston made his headquarters in Greensboro and conferred there with Jefferson Davis. Johnston’s troops skirmished with Sherman all the way from Raleigh across Cary (then named Jones), Morrisville and Carpenter at Petty Farm Road and to Moringsville where the road to Hillsborough crossed New Hope Creek.

After hearing the news of Lee’s surrender and Lincoln’s assassination, Johnston knew he could not hold out against a determined Union army under Sherman. After three meetings he surrendered his 89,270 troops on April 26, 1865. This was the largest Confederate surrender but not the last. The final surrender would come at New Orleans on May 26, 1865. Johnston later honored his nemesis Sherman by being an honorary pallbearer at his funeral at the age of 82. When warned by a friend to wear a hat because of the extreme New York City cold, he refused as it would be a sign of disrespect. He died of pneumonia ten days later.

I hope you too will consider taking this beautiful and informative trip through American history and enjoy all of these national treasures in our midst.

Special thanks to Richard Lewis, Virginia Tourism Corporation for arranging this tour.

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