Carolina's Crystal Coast
By Greg Petty, Photos by Greg and Barbara Petty
June 2008

The old saying, " Every cloud contains a silver lining" perhaps contains a kernel of truth. The "cloud" for many of us in North Carolina is the highest gasoline prices we have ever seen and rising food prices at the grocery store. The "silver lining" is that we are blessed to have one of America's most beautiful vacation spots within 150 miles of Raleigh. It will not break your piggy bank to get there with your family, find lodging, and enjoy a large variety of activities. So come on 'Down East' … there is no need to stay home this summer. Bring your family and friends to enjoy the gem of the Southern Outer Banks, commonly known as The Crystal Coast. If you have not visited it yet, take our word for it… it will end up being a place you wish to return to for years to come.

The Crystal Coast encompasses the communities of Marshallberg and Smyrna on the northeast end of the mainland, Beaufort and Morehead City and Harkers Island bordering the Bogue and Back Sounds, with Swansboro to the southwest. The barrier islands include Cape Lookout National Seashore on the Core Banks, Shackleford Banks and the main island enclosing the Bogue Sound. The main island is accessed via Highway 24 from Jacksonville or from Morehead City off of Highway 70. This 21-mile-long island is unique in that it runs mostly east and west rather than north and south as you would expect. The island contains the communities (east to west) Atlantic Beach, Pine Knoll Shores, Salter Path, Indian Beach and Emerald Isle. The east-west orientation of the island enables visitors to enjoy superb sunrises and sunsets from the beach.

"Tranquility" at Emerald Isle.

Now you need to make decisions regarding your lodging accommodations. Because of the current national economic downturn there may be fewer East Coast visitors to the area than in the recent past. This could translate into improved lodging values, and the area provides a large variety of alternatives. Whether you are looking for a small bungalow, a hotel room, motor lodge, bed and breakfast, home or a "Sand Castle" as the larger 2-3 story family homes are called, you can find an accommodation to fit your budget. We were fortunate enough to stay in a Sand Castle named "Tranquility" and thoroughly enjoyed this spacious home. It is the perfect accommodation for a family reunion or gathering of friends at the beach! Call Bluewater GMAC Real Estate, 888.677.3535. (For a complete listing of accommodations and realtors, visit www.crystalcoastnc.org)

While we were enjoying our "Sand Castle" on Emerald Isle, we enjoyed a fully-prepared gourmet dinner, catered by Carlton's Fine Dining (252.808.3404 or www.carltonsathome.com). Or, you can visit their restaurant in the heart of Salter Path, between Atlantic City and Emerald Isle. Owner and Executive Chef Patrick Hogan specializes in creating fresh seafood dishes that capture the essences of it's natural flavor. Noted for their crab cakes, let me just say, "I concur." These were the best crab cakes I have ever had!

The Cape Lookout Lighthouse.

The Crystal Coast is the perfect getaway not only because of its close proximity to the Piedmont but because it offers so much to do, or so little - your choice. This is a spot where you can decide to go find a stretch of beach where you do not see another person for hours, stick your feet in the sand and read a good book. On the other hand you can sail to Cape Lookout Lighthouse alongside Shackleford Banks (famous for the wild ponies) or take a moonlight or sunset cruise with Captain Steve Bishop on his boat, The Lookout. The sail to Cape Lookout Lighthouse across Onslow Bay takes about 45 minutes but is well worth the trip. While the boat is docked, explore the island and check out the lighthouse and Keeper's Cottage. Notice the unique diamond shape. Painting lighthouses with different patterns became the standard for many North Carolina lighthouses after this one.

Captain Steve's 45-foot catamaran holds up to 42 passengers comfortably, is U.S. Coastguard approved, and he is licensed. Call 252.504.SAIL or visit www.lookoutcruises.com

View from the air.

Locals sail out to Cape Lookout to find unpopulated beaches and to fish. Camping is available, but you must carry-in and carry-out all of your supplies. Ferries will escort your vehicle over to the island.

Other activities can include kayaking one of the Sounds or scuba diving in spots just as world-renowned as Australia and the Caribbean. For the fishing enthusiasts in your family - this is world-class deep sea fishing territory. Don't want to take a boat into open water? Fish right from the beach. How about a birds-eye view of Carteret County coastal communities? Have some fun and take the Crystal Coast Air Tour… highlights may include the wild horses on Shackleford Banks, schools of dolphin and the site of Blackbeard's Queen Ann's Revenge. Crystal Coast Air Tour, 252.728.2323

No worries though for all you landlubbers. There are plenty of activities for you too. You can shop to your heart's content AND take in all the history of North Carolina's third oldest city, Beaufort at the same time. Beaufort will celebrate its 300th year of settlement (English) in 2009 (it was incorporated in 1722). I recommend that you make the Beaufort Historical Association's Safrit Visitor's Center on Turner St. your first stop. You can take the tour of the historic grounds anchored by the Josiah Bell House, the Courthouse, the Apothecary shop, and the Jail. The real treat is to take the 1948 vintage English double-decker bus tour of Beaufort. Local narrators entertain you with the legends of Beaufort's past and information about the historic homes such as Hammock House, 1709, Beaufort's oldest home and rooming lodge of the famous Blackbeard when he was in port.

The wonderful "southern" spokeswoman Mary Barnes regaled us on our visit with these stories. Both Barbara and I got a kick out of the Civil War being described by Mary as "The late unpleasantness!" The other tours offered by the society are the Historic Buildings Tour and the Old Burying Ground Tour. The Old Burying Ground is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and sits next to the beautiful Ann Street Methodist Church at the corner of Ann and Craven Streets. The society offers the Old Homes & Gardens Tour allowing rare glimpses into some of Beaufort's private homes, gardens and churches, this year it will be June 27th and 28th. There will also be an Antique Show and Sale. 800.575.7483 or www.beauforthistoricsite.org

Fort Macon.

Another close-by attraction, Ft. Macon, was built (1826) to protect Beaufort's prized deep-water port and has played an important role in that capacity all the way through WWII. The Fort changed hands in the Civil War with the Union seizing control of it in April, 1862. The state park is located off of Highway 58 on the eastern end of Bogue Banks just across from Morehead City. Admission is free so come and see why this is one of the most visited parks in North Carolina.

Once you have a good sense of the historic importance of Beaufort you may wish to have some fun shopping along Front Street and the shops facing Taylor's Creek. You can purchase everything from fine art, jewelry, model sailboats, clothes to homemade fudge. An ice cream cone from the Beaufort General Store will restore you. If you need a full meal, follow the locals to Beaufort Grocery Company on Queen Street. Despite the name, this well-known establishment brings subtle grace and charm reminiscent of a French country bistro. Charles Park, graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, is the executive chef. Wife and business partner Wendy established the restaurant in 1991. The lunch menu consists of creative soups, salads, and deli sandwiches, but at night, watch out - daily seafood specials and a wide variety of appetizers, entrees, and desserts are complimented by one of the premier wine lists in the region. 252.728.3899 or www.beaufortgrocery.com/bgcmain.html

The Apothocary.

Before leaving Beaufort for other activities be sure to stop by the Maritime Museum on Front Street. The exhibit hall contains full-sized and model watercraft important to North Carolina's maritime history. Items from Blackbeard's sunken ship are displayed, and you can learn about the history of the U.S. Lifesaving Service so critical to our "Graveyard of the Atlantic" coast. The museum offers a whole variety of special programs and events throughout the year so ask about them when you visit. The museum also presents "Cinema by the Sea" movie series every other Friday night that feature first-run and classic films. 315 Front Street, Beaufort, 252.728.7317, www.ncmaritimemuseum.org

There is one more museum stop I recommend. Visit the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores (5 miles west of Atlantic Beach). This excellent museum, which is part of the state-wide aquarium family with additional locations at Roanoke Island and Fort Fisher, was modernized with a $25 million dollar renovation, completed in 2006. It offers exhibits of all of North Carolina's aquatic environments, "From the Mountains to the Sea." Highlights are the 306,000-gallon Living Shipwreck featuring a three-quarter-size replica of the WWII sunken German submarine U-352. The tank includes a wide diversity of aquatic life including large Sand tiger sharks. Everyone will enjoy the visit and leave with a new appreciation for our state's diverse aquatic environments. www.ncaquariums.com

The North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores. Photo courtesy of the Aquarium

In addition to those mentioned, the area offers a delectable variety of culinary options to delight your taste buds and alleviate your hunger (or as Barbara says, "You can just graze your way through the day!"). You can find casual or formal dining and everything in-between. For a casual dining experience right on the Morehead City Waterfront, visit the Sanitary Fish Market & Restaurant. If you're looking to try a new fish dish, try the Blue Fish. You might be in for a real treat if Rodney Kemp happens to be at the Sanitary. Kemp is one of Carteret County's legendary storytellers/humorists and he may share one of his anecdotes with your table. For a special treat, invite Mr. Kemp to your nighttime campfire for some rousing tales. Email Rodey at rodney@chalkandgibbs.com

If the adults in your group are looking for a great meal and a little entertainment try Amos Mosquito's in Atlantic Beach. Start with a Fried Dill Pickle or the Blackened Shrimp & Andouille Sausage Quesadilla. Chef's Howard and Alexander will prepare fresh locally caught fish of the day in tasteful and innovate ways. The Pecan Encrusted Triggerfish is superb but if you are all "fished" out try the excellent Southern Fried Pork Chops or the Jamaican Jerk Roasted Chicken. Live music is available and Thursday's are Sushi & Karaoke nights. 703 E. Fort Macon Road, Atlantic Beach, 252-247-6222.

If you prefer to dress up and enjoy a romantic dinner, I recommend Sharpies in downtown Beaufort. Joyce " Larry Gross' fine dining establishment, decorated with the famous sharpie boat models created by James A. Rose, offers dishes prepared with farm grown local produce and fresh Carteret County seafood. Chef Jerry Frivance and the staff provide fabulous entrée choices and impeccable service. Start with fresh, local raw oysters or the Crab Bisque and choose any of the delicious pork, veal, beef, lamb or seafood entrees. 521 Front Street, Beaufort, 252-838-0101.

Trust Boom! when we say you can enjoy a great vacation with your family and friends at the beautiful and accessible Crystal Coast. For comprehensive information and a schedule of summer activities, visit www.crystalcoastnc.org, 800.786.6962, or email vacation@sunnync.com. Go ahead and have yourself a wonderful North Carolina summer!

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