Although I have traveled a bit, until this past summer, about the only thing I knew about Alabama was that Auburn University was, well, in Auburn, that there were some pretty nasty race riots in Montgomery, and that Forrest Gump was from Greenbow (not a real town!). So when I was invited to visit Mobile Bay, I was excited to experience a new place and to open up my perceptions about the “deep south.”

To my delight, Mobile and the entire Mobile Bay area was a joy to visit. The scenery is beautiful, the people are charming, and the area is experiencing a huge renaissance. In 2003, Retirement Systems of Alabama (RSA) began the restoration of the historic Battle House Hotel and the construction of the Battle House Tower, a 35-story skyscraper that is now the tallest building in Alabama. Also part of the rebuilding and renovating is the Renaissance Riverview Plaza Hotel, just down the street from the Battle House.

The renaissance effort took a major setback when Hurricane Katrina hit in August 2005, and waves exceeding 22 feet entered Mobile Bay. The water surge was still 12 feet in height when it entered the city of Mobile, one can still see the flood line on many of the downtown buildings. The battleship USS Alabama, one of the major tourists sites along the Bay, was lifted off its permanent silt bed and was tilted seven degrees to one side.

Mobile Bay consists of The City of Mobile, which is on the western shore, and the smaller communities of Spanish Fort, Daphne, Montrose, Fairhope, Point Clear, and Barnwell are all on the eastern side. Dauphin Island is at the mouth of the bay as is Bon Secour. The Battleship Parkway Causeway and Interstate 10 connect the two sides of the Bay. From North Carolina, Interstate 85 connects to Interstate 65, which leads directly into Mobile.




A BRIEF HISTORY
Initially, Native Americans settled Mobile Bay before the European explorers arrived. By the mid-16th century, Spanish conquistadors were mapping the area, however the first settlement did not occur until 1702 when Fort Louis de La Louisiane was established as the first capital of the French colony of Louisiana (the capital was moved to Biloxi in 1720). In 1763 at the end of the French and Indian War, the Treaty of Paris ceded Mobile and surrounding territory to Great Britain. In 1780, the Spanish captured the port town and held it until the War of 1812 when US General James Wilkinson seized the area. Over the past 300 years, Mobile has flown six different flags: France, Britain, Spain, The Republic of Alabama, The Confederacy, and The United States.

Reproductions of 18th century cannons at Fort Condé.

For history buffs, Fort Condé in downtown Mobile is a partially reconstructed fort from 1724-1735 when the territory was under French rule. Staffed with soldiers in French period uniforms, the fort features workable reproductions of navel cannons and muskets. Rooms are furnished as officer’s and enlisted men’s quarters and the museum displays artifacts from the site. Fort Gaines, located on Dauphin Island, will provide visitors with information about the Civil War’s Battle of Mobile Bay in 1864 when Admiral David Farragut commanded, “Damn the torpedoes. Full speed ahead!” Fort Gaines is an authentic seacoast fort including a blacksmith shop, bakery, officer’s quarters and actual cannons used in the battle.

The Museum of Mobile contains a great deal of historical information about Native American, Colonial, African-American, and Antebellum influences. Located in the Southern Market, the building itself, erected in 1857, is a National Historical Landmark.

(Holiday Note: A Historic Holiday Open House will be held on December 2 with free admission and refreshments at The Museum. This festive celebration features a visit from St. Nick, storytelling, and ongoing performances from local singing groups.)

Breathtaking Carnival robes are on display at the Mobile Carnival Museum.

Many of the local attractions are prime examples of architecture, culture, and memorabilia from different periods in time. One fact unknown to me was that the first Mardi Gras was held in Mobile (not New Orleans) in 1703. The Mobile Carnival Museum is filled with stories and artifacts about Mardi Gras. Of particular fascination are the royal capes and crowns worn by the annual Mardi Gras King and Queen. These works of art take an entire year to create, each year’s design attempting to outshine the previous one. The month long celebration, ends on Fat Tuesday. The 2008 celebration begins January 5. For a complete schedule, go to www.mobilebay.org

The Antebellum (ante meaning before and bellum meaning war) period, sometimes referred to as Old South, was a time of opulence as much as it was a period of political sectionalism. Affluent citizens created lavish homes and manicured gardens. The Richards-DAR House Museum is on the National Registry of Historic Places, and is an exquisite example of Italianate style. The house is famous for its iron lace exterior depicting the Four Seasons in a flurry of arabesques and scrolls. The house was built in 1860 and was furnished by Steamboat Caption Charles G. Richards and Caroline Elizabeth Steel, daughter of a wealthy planter. Carved Carrara marble mantles, massive brass and bronze chandeliers, and etched panes of Bohemian glass are testaments to the lavish tastes of the affluent class. The Daughters of the American Revolution now administer the property as a period-house museum.

(Holiday Note: On December 1 and 2, 2007 the Richards-DAR House will be celebrating the "Twelve Days of Christmas". Enjoy festive lighting, homemade refreshments, and live entertainment each day.)

Photo courtesy of the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion.

Another example of the lifestyles of the rich and richer is the Bragg-Mitchell Mansion. Canopied by centuries-old oak trees, this 16-columed architectural stunner is furnished more in a Greek revival and Italianate style, and is one of the Gulf Coasts’ grandest antebellum mansions. Built in 1855 by Judge John Bragg, the house boasts a circular staircase, double parlors, and lavish rooms appointed with fine antiques and exquisite draperies.

If you plan on visiting Mobile in March, you will be able to take part in the annual Mobile Historic Homes Tour when privately owned historic homes are on rare display to the public. Visit www.cityofmobile.org for more info.

(Holiday Note: On December 1 and 2, 2007, the Oakleigh Historic Complex will be hosting their annual "Candlelight Christmas at Oakleigh.” A 19th century holiday celebration with seasonal music, horse-drawn carriage rides, guided tours, exhibitors, and refreshments. There will be tours by candlelight in the evening. For more information, call 251.433.3265 or visit www.historicmobile.org)

The Bellingrath Gardens.

Another private home that is now a noteworthy attraction is the Bellingrath Gardens and Home. Built in 1935, the 10,500 square foot home features an English Renaissance style. The original furnishings of Mrs. Bellingrath include an extensive collection of decorative arts such as silver, china, crystal and cut glass. The 65-acre garden estate blooms yearlong; take as long as you like to enjoy the gardens on a self-guided tour. End your visit with a 45-minute waterfront cruise along the Fowl River while learning about the wildlife and ecological systems of Mobile Bay.

(Holiday Note: From Nov 23 - Dec 31, 2007, visit the Bellingrath Gardens and Home “Magic Christmas in Lights” spectacular holiday light display. The gardens will feature more than three million strands of twinkling lights and over 25 displays. The home will be decorated in holiday finery and splendor. Closed December 25.)





WHERE TO STAY

The Battle House Hotel Lobby. Photo courtesy of PCH Hotels & Resorts, Inc.

I was fortunate to be a guest of The Battle House Hotel in downtown Mobile. Originally opened in 1852, this beautiful facility was a masterpiece of 19th century French architecture until a fire destroyed it in 1905. The four-year, $220 million restoration opened to much fanfare earlier this year. The original Beaux Art style has been faithfully recreated including the dome and stained glass windows over the lobby. The Crystal Ballroom speaks of an era of opulence, grace, and timeless hospitality. Of the 238 elegantly appointed guest rooms, several of them feature balconies that overlook the Mardi Gras parade route. Numerous celebrities have graced these premises including Ulysses S. Grant, Woodrow Wilson, and Babe Ruth. The Trellis Room, the on-site restaurant, is a delightful dining experience.

The Renaissance Riverview Plaza Hotel is right on the waterfront, and is part of the downtown renovation efforts. This 375-room upscale hotel is connected to the Mobile Convention Center via a skywalk. www.riverviewmobile.com

Further south on Mobile Bay is the Grand Hotel Marriott Resort, Golf Club
& Spa. Located in Point Clear, The Grand Hotel features 36 holes of championship golf, and a 20,000 square foot European-inspired spa. www.marriottgrand.com


OTHER EATS
Speaking of food, and one must eat while traveling, there’s nothing like seafood on the Gulf. We had lunch at Wintzell’s Oyster House, a landmark restaurant in downtown Mobile. Most notable for its (you guessed it) oysters, you can also enjoy award winning gumbo and a variety of other seafood. Don’t expect lavish, this is a favorite of the locals as well as the tourists.

The Original Oyster House is another popular destination. Casual dining to be sure – this place is informal and boisterous. But it is also located along the causeway and offers a fabulous view of the waterfront while you enjoy great food including crawfish, alligator, crab claws, shrimp, gumbo, and the
ubiquitous oyster.

Cooper T’s Restaurant is easy to find – it’s the one with an airplane tail coming out of the roof! Combining excellent service with the romance of old-time air travel, this unique dining experience has a comprehensive menu from steaks to burgers… and Mobile’s best Bar-B-Q.


MORE TO-DO’S
Although there are many more sights and experiences in Mobile Bay that we have room to include here, I did want to mention two more destinations in particular. The Gulf Coast Exploreum Science Center is one of the best interactive facilities I have ever been to. Digital Universe is a dataset of images within the observable universe and is a virtual reality ride. As a fan of outer space since I saw the Saturn images taken from the Hubble spacecraft, I thoroughly enjoyed this presentation – it’s like a planetarium on steroids. The Ciba Lab allows budding scientists the opportunity to perform their own science demonstrations. And the on-site IMAX Theatre has revolving movies and documentaries.

The Estuarium is the public aquarium of the Dauphin Island Sea Lab, Alabama’s marine education and research center. Explore the four key ecosystems of the region: the Delta, Mobile Bay, the Barrier Islands and the Gulf of Mexico. The Estuarium’s mission is to educate the public about the scientific wonders and fragile beauty of native ecosystems.

Though Mobile offers the amenities and infrastructure of a major metropolitan area, it has retained its sense of community and friendliness. The rest of the world is taking notice: Mobile has been honored with an All-America City designation by the National Civic League. Mobile consistently ranks high in Money Magazine's “300 Best Places to Live” issue.


Resources

Fort Condé - 150 South Royal Street, Mobile
251.208.7569, www.museumofmobile.com

Fort Gaines - 51 Bienville Blvd., Dauphin Island
251.861.6992, www.dauphinisland.org

The Museum of Mobile - 111 South Royal Street, Mobile,
251.208.7569, www.museumofmobile.com

Mobile Carnival Museum - 355 Government Street, Mobile,
251.432.3324, www.mobilecarnivalmuseum.com

Richards-DAR House Museum - 256 North Joachim Street, Mobile
251.208.7320, www.richardsdarhouse.com

Bragg-Mitchell Mansion - 1906 Springhill Avenue, Mobile
251.471.6264
www.braggmitchellmansion.com

Bellingrath Gardens and Home - 12401 Bellingrath Gardens Road, Theodore
800.247.8420, www.bellingrath.org

USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park - 2703 Battleship Parkway, Mobile
251.433.2703, www.ussalabama.com

Wintzell’s Oyster House - 605 Dauphin Street, Mobile
251.432.4605, www.wintzellsoysterhouse.com

Original Oyster House - 3733 Battleship Parkway, Mobile Bay
251.626.2188, www.originaloysterhouse.com

Cooper T’s Restaurant - 6341 Airport Blvd., Mobile
251.342.7200, www.cooperts.com

Gulf Coast Exploreum Science Center - 65 Government Street, Mobile
251.208.6873, www.exploreum.net

The Estuarium at the Dauphin Island Sea Lab - 101 Bienville Blvd., Dauphin Island
251.861.2141, www.disl.org