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Petty Family Idaho Vacation
July 2007
By Barbara Petty

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The public park along the shores of
Lake Pend Oreille.

Last fall, my husband's family decided to meet for a family reunion. We had not been together for several years, so it was time. The majority of the family lives closer to the west coast than east, so Sandpoint, Idaho was chosen as our destination.

This town is not exactly easy to get to from North Carolina. We had to fly into Spokane, Washington and then rent a car (although the 75-mile drive northeast was lovely). We traveled east on Interstate 90 towards Coeur D'Alene (Heart of the Awl, awl referring to the sharp-pointed traders that originally lived here). We then turned north on U.S. 95 to reach our destination. Sandpoint is on the northwest end of Lake Pend Oreille (a rough translation is hanging ear, probably because that is what it is shaped like), one of the most beautiful (and deepest!) lakes in North America. In fact, the U.S. Navy has a submarine research facility here. The protected coves surrounding the lake are perfect for all sorts of water sports and camping. Sailboats are quite popular because of the prevailing southwest winds, and the Lake hosts several sailing regattas all summer long.

We stayed at the Best Western Edgewater Resort in Sandpoint because it is a motel as well as an RV campsite (to accommodate the campers in the family). Our first day together as a family was at the park on the shore of Lake Pend Oreille directly behind the campground. The day was spent visiting, eating, and playing sports (volleyball, football, paddle ball). Although hot, that part of the country does not have the humidity we contend with in the Triangle. The backdrop of pristine, glacial waters and the Selkirk Mountains in the distance made for a nearly perfect day.

Lake Pend Oreille, 43 miles long and 1,158 feet deep, offers a variety of boating and water-related experiences. In addition to sailing, you can rent a ski-boat for waterskiing, or the less-difficult version of wake-boarding. If you like to work for your pleasure, rent a kayak. Or, if you are into extreme sports, The Moyie River, with Class Five rapids is only an hour away. If you prefer, take a fishing charter or a scenic cruise. For a complete listing of boat rentals or slips, go to www.sandpoint.com/recreation/ watersports.asp (you can also find a listing of campgrounds on that site.) In addition to boating, the 111 miles of shoreline offer numerous opportunities for sunbathing, swimming, castle building, or just plain snoozing.

If your vehicle of choice is your car, there are numerous scenic drives around Sandpoint. The Kootenai National Wildlife Refuge, the Selkirk Loop, and the Pend Oreille Scenic Byway are but a few from which to choose. You can find a complete listing on www.sandpoint.com/recreation/scenicdrives.asp

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The Summer Music Festival at Sandpoint.

Although only a town of 6,000 people, Sandpoint has a very active arts community. Their annual ArtWalk is June 22 through July 23, 2007 (dates vary year to year). This year, Sandpoint celebrates its 25th year of hosting The Festival at Sandpoint. This outdoor concert series boasts some very big names, among them Johnny Lang, Lyle Lovett, and Robert Earl Keen.

The next day, Greg's nephew Kenny, local resident and guide, took us to a secret swimming hole along the banks of the Priest River. Needless to say, the water was brisk! It didn't prevent the younger ones from playing, splashing, and tubing. We were cautioned not go out into the river's center as the current can be stronger than along the edges.

Next on our itinerary was Priest Lake, "Idaho's Crown Jewel." Driving along Highway 57, stop at the Visitor's Center at milepost 22 for a complete listing of services and activities. Although smaller than Lake Pend Oreille with only 80 miles of shoreline, it is considered more of a "resort". The lodgings are upscale, and there is a greater variety of activities and scenic locations.

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Photo courtesy of Hill's Resort.

We spent the day at Hill's Resort, a family-owned, nationally recognized vacation destination (and a veritable annual retreat for loyal devotees - some actually fly in and land either on the water or on the grassy runway). With lakefront property, fresh mountain air, and cabins and chalets nestled between the cedars, we fell in love with the place. A year-round destination, summer activities include water sports, boating, golf (an 18-hole championship course), tennis, beach volleyball, hiking (including huckleberry picking and mushroom gathering!), river running, rock climbing, bird and wildlife viewing, and mountain bike riding. In the winter, you can experience game hunting, or enjoy Nordic sports such as snowmobiling, snowshoeing or cross-country skiing on groomed trails. All of the lakeside cabins and chalets feature native rock fireplaces to enjoy cozy winter nights, or even brisk spring and fall evenings. It is, after all, a mountain retreat.

Lest I forget to mention their culinary expertise, be prepared to enjoy Hill's Resort restaurant specialties including those locally picked huckleberries and wild Morel and Chanterelle mushrooms. The view from the dining room is to die-for.

Hill's Resort is open year-round. From mid-June through the end of August, only weekly rentals are available. For more information, the Web site is www.hillsresort.com, or you can call 208.443.2551

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The view from the swimming hole at Priest River.
ACTIVITIES
On Priest Lake:
Indian Rock is the site of pictographs believed to be drawn by the Kalispell tribe of Native Americans. Indian Rock is located at the north end of Kalispell Bay, and is best observed by boat, as the surrounding area is a sensitive anthropological and historical site.

The Vinther-Nelson Cabin is one of the best-known historical landmarks in the area. Dating back to 1897, most of the original structure and many of the original artifacts related to cabin life are still intact. Open in the summer and only accessible via watercraft, the cabin is located on the east side of Eight Mile Island, in Priest Lake.

The Thorofare is a narrow waterway that links Priest Lake to Upper Priest Lake. The 21/2 mile channel meanders through some spectacular forests, and is protected from development by the Upper Priest Lake Scenic Area. A speed limit is enforced, thus making this trek perfect for canoes and kayaks. Crystal clear water allows the viewer to see the channel bottom; wildlife of all varieties can be seen along the banks.

North:
Upper Priest Lake is strictly for the "pack-it-in and pack-it-out" outdoor lover. It has no development whatsoever; access to the lake is via boat or hiking only. No motorized vehicles (cars or boats) are allowed. For a true slice of nature's paradise, this is it.

Roosevelt Grove of Ancient Cedars is located 13 miles north of Nordman. You must hike in, and although it may be a bit of a trek, along the way you will see both Upper and Lower Granite Falls. At Roosevelt Grove, you will find living cedar trees ranging from 800 to 2,000 years old, the trees are up to 12 feet in diameter and 150 feet tall.

Upper Priest Falls is just south of the Canadian border. Based on the driving directions on the Web site (www.priestlake.org/attraction/upperfalls.html), this is only for those that are good with a compass. Before you go, ask yourself, "Do I feel lucky?"

East:
Moose Lake is the perfect place to take your grandson or granddaughter for some fishing success. Located in Huckleberry Bay, the pond is liberally stocked with trout by Idaho Fish & Game. Although the lake is open to the public, it is privately owned, so no littering!

Mount Roothaan/Chimney Rock offers spectacular scenery including a view of Priest Lake and Horton Ridge. The actual Chimney Rock looks much like our own North Carolina version. The trailhead starts at Mount Roothaan, and goes up from 5,000 feet to an elevation of over 7,000. Hiking shoes are a must. If you have a 4X4 vehicle and good navigation skills, this is the place for you.

Lion Creek Natural Water Slide, also known as Slippery Rocks, is a very popular recreation site. Various rock configurations such as slides, pools, and falls were formed as Lion Creek flowed over massive granite slabs for thousands of years. The site is perfect for picnics as well as hiking and huckleberry pickin'. Note that spring run-off waters make the creek inaccessible; however, by summer it's fine. A two-mile hike from Forest Road 42 will get you to the best location.

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Photo courtesy of Hill's Resort.

South:
Whitetail Butte is only a few minutes from the south end of Priest Lake. It ascends to 3,000 feet and offers a great view of the mountains. Depending on the time of year, the view changes
dramatically.

Priest River Experimental Forest does just that - researches the forest! Results from on-the-ground testing enables managers to better conserve and utilize the available resources. Soil and plant genetic research, weather and stream flow monitoring, snow pack observations - this is an environmental scientist's dream. An on-site museum shares the story of the history of the facility. Located on Gisborne Mountain, the facility is about nine miles south of the Lake.

Priest Lake Ranger District Headquarters welcomes visitors and can provide up-to-date information on all local recreational activities. Its mission is to provide recreational facilities and activities including the trail system, historical sites, and managing the camping/picnic/day-use facilities. www.reserveUSA.com, or toll-free 877.444.6777.

Hanna Flats Cedar Grove is just one mile west of the Ranger Headquarters. It includes an interesting quarter-mile interpretive nature trail with eight different types of trees, 10 species of shrubs, and over a dozen different plants. This is a wonderful opportunity to combine an educational experience with a short hike.

Priest Lake Museum, built in 1935, is a prime example of handcrafted oil-treated tamarack (larch) log construction. The building initially served as the First Ranger office, and now houses numerous articles and displays that depict the history of the lake and surrounding area. The museum, located on the west shore just north of Hill's Resort, is a great place to begin any visit to the Lake.

We came to Idaho as visitors and left as converts. Within an hour's drive of each other, you have two of the most beautiful mountain lake resorts in the United States: Lake Pend Oreille and Priest Lake. The attractions vary from nature to art to educational - something for every type of traveler. Although it takes some time to get to Idaho from the Triangle, you are going to want to stay for a spell... and fall under its spell. There's more to this place than potatoes.

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