Discovering North Carolina
Traveling the Blue Ridge Parkway: All-American Highway
Part 2 — by Greg Petty
July 2010
This article is the second installment of our tribute to the 75th anniversary of the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) in North Carolina. Part one took us from the end of the parkway at Bryson City and Cherokee north through Balsam Gap toward Asheville.
Asheville has many attractions for travelers and some of them are just off of the BRP. As you enter town take the Brevard Road exit and turn left (north). The first attraction is the North Carolina Arboretum. The Arboretum’s 434 acres contain one of the most beautiful natural settings in America. The roads and trails are extensively used by local residents for hiking, biking and those interested in nature and gardening. Owned by the National Park Service and operated by UNC University system, the gardens offer 65 acres of cultivated gardens, 10 miles of forested hiking and biking trails and the finest bonsai collection in the Southeastern United States. Our advice, don’t miss it.
As we had already had a full day and were ready to relax, we headed for our Asheville hotel accommodations. I might have rushed it a little bit because I was excited. We were to be hosted by the proprietors at the legendary Grove Park Inn… in the footsteps of guests Barack & Michelle Obama, nine other presidents and countless industrialists and stars. The Grove Park Inn is everything you may have heard about it. A great hotel with excellent dining options, an unmatched view of the mountains from the sunset terrace, a world-class spa and a Donald Ross golf course to boot. Our room looked out over the 10th hole of the golf course and it was a short walk to the Great Hall with its two 36-foot wide natural stone fireplaces. As the sun slowly descended over the Smoky’s we enjoyed a chilled beverage and the matchless view.
Asheville, along with its art and craft notoriety, has also been voted Beer City USA and succeeds the hard to beat Portland, OR as a brewers and connoisseurs destination. It also boasts some of the finest art galleries and restaurants in the region. We were fortunate to dine that evening at downtown Asheville’s Fiore’s Ristorante Toscana. Proprietor Anthony Cerrato welcomed us into his comfortable abode at 122 College St. across from Pack Park and wowed us both with the locally grown food and service provided by our waiter Jason. We enjoyed an authentic Italian meal accompanied by fine wine selections. We completed the perfect meal with out of this world Tiramisu and a toast with Anthony. As Anthony says, “Ama Cio Che Mangi” (Love what you eat). Visit fioresasheville.com.
Hop back on the BRP and head north in Asheville to milepost 382 and visit the Folk Art Center. The center exhibits traditional and contemporary crafts of the Appalachian region from the 900 artisan members of The Southern Highland Craft Guild. Enjoy one of the craft demonstrations that occur daily through December.
Our next adventure awaited us north of Asheville with a visit to a working guest ranch. We took the BRP north to Buck Creek Gap and the exit for Highway 80. We took Highway 80 west toward Micaville for 18 miles to the Clear Creek Guest Ranch entrance. Owners Rex and Aileen Frederick have spared no effort to make your stay at the ranch as relaxing or as active as each person desires. The ranch covers approximately 70 acres of beautiful mountain land with views of Mt. Mitchell in the distance. Clear Creek Ranch lies at 3,000 feet and is surrounded by the Pisgah National Forest. The ranch can accommodate up to 65 people. Guests are welcomed from April to Thanksgiving and can enjoy horseback riding, hiking, fishing, and tubing for the kids or the nearby golf at Mt. Mitchell Golf Club. The Frederick’s are experts at arranging fun activities on site including line dancing, karaoke and volleyball according to the guest’s interests.
The ranch is built with beautiful log siding and each room is tastefully decorated in rustic ranch style. Everyone has a porch to kick back on and enjoy the picturesque views. Every guest enjoys home cooked meals served family style and meal times are your chance to meet the other guest adventurers as well as the dedicated staff and wranglers who work the ranch.
The next morning we took an hour and a half horseback ride through the forest. After receiving expert instructions on riding our horses, we mounted them and proceeded to ride up and down the mountainside while enjoying the ever-changing views. It was great to be on a well-trained horse again and we both truly enjoyed the experience. Clear Creek Ranch is the perfect location for a family reunion, a business group or a special intimate time with your loved one. Rex and Aileen will make sure you are taken care of. Visit clearcreekranch.com or call 800-651-4510.
As much as we loved Clear Creek Ranch, the BRP beckoned and we headed back to the highway and went slightly south to drive up Mt. Mitchell. Mt. Mitchell is the highest mountain east of the Mississippi at 6,684 feet and the 360-degree views from the top are fabulous. Since it was early May it was cold at the peak and we did not linger. There are well-marked hiking trails on the mountain and I am sure it is a busy spot during the warmer summer months.We then proceeded north on the BRP toward Blowing Rock our final destination. There are stops along the way that you may wish to take and all are just off the BRP on Highway 221 at milepost 317. If you have not had enough hiking to waterfalls you can stop at Linville Falls. Another option is to visit Linville Caverns inside Humpback Mountain to see the stalactites and stalagmites along the level and well-lit guided tour. Head toward Blowing Rock on Hwy 221 and follow the signs to Grandfather Mountain. The mountain is 5,946 feet high and the site boasts picnic areas, hiking trails, seven different animal habitats to see wildlife up close and the famous mile high swinging bridge.
We continued on to Blowing Rock to enjoy the popular mountain town voted by journalists as North Carolina’s prettiest small town. It is known as the Crown of the Blue Ridge and it lives up to its reputation. As with Bryson City and Asheville, Blowing Rock is a gateway to popular outdoor activities for those seeking adventures. You can visit Blowing Rock and experience the mysterious winds for yourself, hike to Glen Burney Falls, visit the Moses Cone Manor or ride the Tweetsie Railroad. On the other hand you can also enjoy the city’s renowned shopping, arts, antique shops and restaurants. Blowing Rock is also home to several resorts and spas for those wishing to relax and be pampered.
Barbara and I enjoyed a delightful meal at The Best Cellar Restaurant at The Inn at Ragged Gardens. The menu and wine list are extensive and designed to whet your appetite for fresh fish, poultry or beef. I chose the roast duckling with red raspberry sauce and a glass of Central Coast Dynamite Merlot. Barb selected halibut with a glass of Saddlerock Chardonnay. You too can enjoy the charm of the Inn and restaurant by visiting them at 203 Sunset St. in Blowing Rock. Afterward you can work off all those calories by strolling the shops and galleries downtown.
Our trip along the BRP ended with a drive to Boone to visit friends on Heavenly Mountain. The final stretch of the Blue Ridge we drove was from Boone up to the exit for Highway 421 to Wilkesboro. This stretch of the BRP is every bit as scenic as its southern sections. It was great to get out at the pullouts and look back over the gorgeous mountains to the south that we had just traversed. We hope your visit to the Blue Ridge Parkway will be as fun and educational as it was for us. Make your own family plans and obtain your traveling and lodging reservations soon. The parkway will be especially busy this year. Happy motoring!