Cuisine to Culture
Lovely Lyon Delights
by Kathy M. Newbern
May 2010
Sipping French champagne in Delta’s BusinessElite class, I hear the attendant announce: "We’re very excited to add this new Lyon flight to the gourmet capital of the world."
A few days later, I’m a believer, having sampled everything from market fare to casual bouchon restaurants to the creme de la creme, Restaurant Paul Bocuse.
Gary Meekins lives near Atlanta and often travels to Lyon on business. "The best thing about Lyon," he says, "is it’s a large enough city that everything you want is there, but it’s small enough that you don’t feel intimidated going to a foreign country."
He’s right. In just days, I’m comfortable getting around France’s second-largest city (440,000 people; 1.7 million counting the suburbs; Lyon’s the second-largest UNESCO World Heritage city after Prague). It’s simple: follow the rivers; between the Rhone and Saone is the Presqu’ile, the city center.
Meekins, who travels here about five times a year, says, "I like seeing the history, how Romans occupied the area, and the architectural changes throughout history that are present in Lyon."
To see both, head toward Fourviere Hill, where the remains of two Roman theaters overlook modern Lyon, once known as Lugdunum (hill of light) and the capital of ancient Gaul during Roman occupation.
At the top of the hill is one of Lyon’s most visited sites, the 1896 Fourviere Basilica. Outside is its giant, glass-enclosed, golden statue of the Virgin Mary with outstretched arms. She’s the patron saint of Lyon, "strong like a fortress protecting us," assures tour guide Sandrine Clauzier.
The basilica also offers the best panoramic city view. Below is a sea of multihued-orange, barrel-tile rooftops. The landmark Ferris wheel and the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist stand out. They’re also visible from Villa Florentine, a Relais & Chateaux property with pool, terraced gardens and al fresco dining at its Michelin one-star restaurant (villaflorentine.com)
Don’t overlook the old district, Vieux Lyon, known as the medieval or Renaissance district for its well-preserved architecture, like the four restored buildings (14th-17th century) that comprise the unusual Hotel Cour des Loges (courdesloges.com), home to the delightful Gerard Ravet, concierge extraordinaire. Courtyard diners have amazing open views all the way up the four floors of the surrounding stone buildings and their matching, floor-by-floor arches. The top-floor spa will delight.
Concierge Ravet can arrange a walking tour through Vieux Lyon’s signature, covered passageways known as "traboules" for an insider’s view, including a look at La Tour Rose (the Pink Tower), one of the oldest structures.
For high-end shopping, popular streets are Rue President Edouard Herriot, Rue Emile Zola and Place Kleber. You’ll find Lancel, Escada, Louis Vuitton, George Rech and Hermes. For Italian and French shoes, try the Bonnie and Clyde boutique (18 Rue de la Monnaie); for inexpensive, funky jewelry, check out Criollo Bijoux (8 Rue Joseph Serlin).
Other don’t-misses are the silk factory and the murals.
L’Atelier de Soierie sells modern silk creations and also showcases Lyon’s traditional art of silk screening, or frame printing. In its heyday, silk employed 30,000. Guide Clauzier points out where some of these family workshops operated, easy to spot by tall windows indicating the high ceilings needed to house the power looms.
You can spot some of the city’s large building murals (200 in all) from the open-topped La Grand Tour hop-on-hop-off buses.
One mural shows a man on a balcony pointing the way to Cour des Loges; another, likenesses of real citizens descending stairs to the street and withdrawing cash from an ATM. More than one tourist has approached the ATM before realizing it is artwork. It’s no coincidence the murals are called "tromp l’oeil," or "trick the eye."
One of the most elaborate murals, La Fresque des Lyonnais, encompasses an entire seven-story building to depict famous residents, from restaurateur Bocuse to the creator of the Guignol Theater, with an emperor (Claude) and a martyr (Saint Blandine) thrown in for good measure.
The puppet Guignol was created here 200 years ago, inspired by the plight of the silk workers, or canuts. An early social commentator, his shows often depicted stick fights with police. Today’s Theatre de Guignol marionette shows are family friendly, and puppets are popular souvenirs.
More silk-worker inspiration is found at Cafe des Federations, a bouchon restaurant, meaning the menu features authentic, local cuisine like "caviar of silk workers," a lentil bean appetizer, blood sausages and pork cheeks.
Lyon’s two large public squares are great for watching the passing scene, including the popular red bikes you pick up and drop off at spots all over the city using coin meters (the concept originated here and was copied in Paris).
They are:
- Place Bellcour with shops, cafes, Ferris wheel and statue of Louis XIV on horseback (locals often say, "Meet me at the horse’s tail"), and
- Place des Terreaux featuring the palatial, 17th-century City Hall (Hotel de Ville de Lyon); the Fine Arts Museum (Musee des Beaux-Arts); plus the impressive horses fountain (Fountaine Bartholdi) by Statue of Liberty sculptor Bartholdi.
Still, the most basic research on Lyon yields the words "gastronomic capital of the world" for good reason.
Unforgettable meals — no, make that dining experiences — await at the Michelin 3-Star Restaurant Paul Bocuse. The website, bocuse.fr notes, "Located four kilometers north of Lyon on the banks of the Saone, this family house has become an obligatory stopping point for gourmets from every corner of the globe."
Here’s a typical, mouth-watering menu: scallop of foie gras, pan-cooked and served with verjus sauce and lightly-browned potatoes; red mullet dressed in crusty potato scales; Beaujolais winemaker’s sherbet; fricasse of Bresse chicken in cream sauce with morel mushrooms; selection of fresh and matured cheeses plus "fantasies and chocolates."
Bocuse’s famous Bresse chickens, by the way, can be purchased from the fantastic indoor market, La Halle de Lyon. Market offerings, including dining, are mind-blowing.
You can try your hand at making some of the macaroons for sale in the market by taking a French pastry cooking class with Chef Jean-Marc Villard at Atelier de Cuisine Gastronomique (cuisinedechef.com).
For fun dining, try Brasserie Georges, dating to 1836 and still the largest restaurant in all of Europe. You’ll mingle with the locals as you sample frog legs, escargots, homemade chicken liver terrine with onion chutney and Melon Charentais au Porto, a beautiful, carved-out melon holding port wine. (brasseriegeorges.com)
Café Epicerie at Cour des Loges (courdesloges.com) has cozy outdoor dining in the heart of Vieux Lyon.
After fully exploring Lyon, head to Beaujolais, an hour away, to savor this glorious wine region.
You could spend a whole day at Hameau Duboeuf La Gare. "The Hamlet of the Wine" offers films, an ancient wine press, vintage wine posters, interactive displays, extensive wine memorabilia, Duboeuf winery tour and tastings plus an original locomotive that traveled the famous Paris-Lyon-Mediterranean wine route (hameauduvin.com).
At the five-star, 13th-century Chateau de Bagnols, the fragrance of lavender fills the air for arriving dinner or overnight guests.
The impressive, golden-stone chateau, with towers, dry moat and draw bridge, features a jaw-dropping setting among vineyards, forests and green hills in the heart of the Beaujolais countryside. The Michelin one-star Salle des Gardes restaurant offers regional specialties and an impressive selection of Beaujolais wines (bagnols.com).
When you return, just mention Lyon to your favorite "foodie" friends; they’ll be impressed.
Sightseeing
- Taxi driver Bruno Lechalier, +33 (0) 6 07 32 64 56
- Tour guide Sandrine Clauzier, +33 (0) 6 29 45 906 95
- Purchase a 1-, 2- or 3-day Lyon City Card for full museum admissions and reduced prices on other sites plus free bus, metro, tram and funicular rides.
Where to Stay
COUR DES LOGES: courdesloges.com
HOTEL LYON METROPOLE just outside the city center features extensive pools, workout facilities and spa treatments: lyonmetropole.com
VILLA FLORENTINE: villaflorentine.com offers stunning rooftop views.
LE ROYAL HOTEL LYON, also home to a Paul Bocuse Institute, on Bellcour Square. Ask for the fifth-floor corner room with balcony: lyonhotel-leroyal.com
Frequent Lyon traveler Gary Meekins likes MERCURE LYON PLAZA RÉPUBLIQUE, with a great Rhone River view; GRAND HOTEL MERCURE CHATEAU PERRACHE LYON CENTRE, both at mercure.com, plus THE GRAND HOTEL BOSCOLO, boscolohotels.com.
More Info
- Details on Lyon: en.lyon-france.com
- Details on the region: rhonealpes-tourism.us
Travel writer Kathy M. Newbern (with husband J.S. Fletcher) specializes in writing about luxury destinations, cruising and spas worldwide.