Exploring Modern China - Part II

by Greg Petty
February 2010

The second leg of our visit to China began with a flight south from Beijing to Shanghai and then a short bus ride west to the charming city of Suzhou. The city is known as the "Oriental Venice" and is one of the most popular tourist sites in China.

Suzhou is bisected by one of the greatest building achievements in China, indeed in the world, the Grand Canal. Building began on the project in 486BC and was completed in approximately 610AD. The canal runs from Beijing in the north to Hangzhou in the south, a distance of over 1,114 miles making it the oldest and longest canal constructed by man. It contains some 24 locks and 60 bridges along its route.

Our tour of the canal began with a boat ride that took us on its winding course through busy downtown districts and into residential neighborhoods. Although it was misty and chilly that day, we enjoyed the fresh air and glimpses of everyday life along the famous canal. The houses are white with gray or red tile roofs and contrast beautifully with the water. We stopped at a local pier and visited the neighborhood marketplace where one could find some unusual foodstuffs along with everyday household items.

Suzhou contains four famous gardens that have been recognized as World Heritage sites. We visited the Lingering Garden and that is exactly what you want to do when you enter its environs - just sit amidst the beauty and peace. The garden was my personal favorite location of the entire trip. Our visit was in November and the garden was beautiful even at that time of year. I tried to imagine the garden at the height of the springtime floral bloom, it must be simply astounding. The other famous gardens are the Humble Administrators Garden, the Garden of Master of Nets and the Mountain Villa with Embracing Beauty.

China has long been synonymous with silk. Silk production and resulting fabrics, high tech products, and of course the crafts and art, are still factors in the Chinese economy. We visited a silk factory and were able to view all the steps of production from stripping the cocoon to the spinning and spooling, to stretching of entire silk mats to produce silk comforters. At two different locations we witnessed the artistry and ancient practice of creating intricate designs out of silk. The first was a carpet and rug factory. The rugs, some with as many as 1,700 hand-tied knots in a single line, were stunning. A rug like that will last for generations and may, depending on its size and design, take as long as 36 months to complete. The second location we visited was the National Embroidery Institute where the versatile silk is turned into exquisite works of art. The silk is sewn into artful depictions of everything from traditional designs (cherry blossom tree limbs, scenic landscapes, etc.), to portraits of famous people. Some of the pieces have two completely different images on opposite sides of the frame. As with the rugs, the price is contingent upon the size and intricacy of the artwork.

Our next destination was Hangzhou, an ancient provincial capital south of Shanghai. Hangzhou is at the southern terminus of the Grand Canal in the Yangtze River delta. It is one of the seven ancient capital cities of China. It was the capital of both the Wuyue Kingdom (907-78AD) and the Song Dynasty (1123 - 1276AD). It is a beautiful city dominated by the West Lake and enjoys a climate that is categorized as humid subtropical. It is one of the most visited cities in China and so many vacationers visit there that the new high speed Maglev (magnetic levitation) train line will connect it directly to Shanghai. We noted that the pillars for the trains’ high-tech track are already completed most of the way to Shanghai.

Home to some of China’s most famous scholars, poets and politicians the city was visited and described by Marco Polo as the city "beyond dispute the finest and the noblest in the world." Modern Hangzhou has a population of 6.4 million people and possesses a diverse economy of light industry, textiles, agriculture and logistical shipping.

We were treated to a morning cruise on West Lake. Although the day was overcast and cold we enjoyed the sight of modern Hangzhou to the east and beautiful homes, pagodas and temples that surround the lake. The relaxing morning cruise was followed by a drive up into the hills to the lush plantation of the Longjing Tea Company at Xi Hu.

The plantation offered our group a complete tour. After the precious green leaves are picked they are placed into a warm large kettle and rotated by hand until they have been warmed to the point that it will stop the fermentation of the leaves. The leaves are then separated and placed into categories of quality. The quality rankings are in seven grades from superior, special and grades one through five.

I never thought that a tea plantation would be one of my favorite stops on the trip but it turned out to be so. The Xi Hu Longjing tea has been granted the title of China Famous Tea. The plantation itself is beautiful and the tea, with its high concentration of vitamin C, amino acids and antioxidants has a wonderful subtle taste. While we were here we purchased a year’s supply. We admit it - we’re spoiled and want only the Longjing green tea from now on.

Our trip to Hangzhou would end with a visit to the large Buddhist Monastery at Ling Yin. This temple is one of the ten most important temples in China, and the site has been considered holy since about 400AD when a holy man named the site Ling Yin (Temple of the Soul’s Retreat). The temple was built up during the Five Dynasties period (907-960AD). The large Buddha, surrounded by the Four Heavenly Generals and disciples is quite impressive. The temple complex can accommodate over 3,000 monks, but in spite of its size we noted how peaceful the environment was. The lack of noise and wafting incense allowed everyone who was so inclined time for quiet contemplation and reflection.

Our travels in China would come to an end after a visit to the burgeoning metropolis of Shanghai. Picture New York City on steroids… 18 million people inhabit the city. The skyscrapers are higher and newer than NYC. Shanghai is indeed an architect’s dream.

Included in our tour was the opportunity to ride the high-speed Maglev train from Shanghai city to the airport. The ride did not disappoint. The train is modern and spacious with comfortable seats. We were all excited as the train left the station and silently gained speed. All eyes were glued to the speedometer digital display at both ends of the car… while riding as smoothly as glass the countryside outside flew by at an ever-increasing rate until we reached 413km/h or 256 mph - phenomenal. By contrast Amtrak’s Acela top speed is only 150 mph. The world is leaving us behind in the high-speed travel stakes.

As with NYC Shanghai is famous for its cosmopolitan atmosphere, and it will host the World Fair this year. The city offers all the usual amenities - world class dining and shopping. We stayed away from the Cartier stores, and I was particularly proud of myself for not going to the huge Ferrari dealership and ogling all the cars for sale there. We did, however, shop at the Bund, a popular shopping area with hundreds of shops - large and small, big companies to individual entrepreneurs, all selling their wares. Barb came away with a beautiful lace tablecloth and matching napkins. I watched as she expertly bargained (I am absolutely a horrible haggler) the merchant down to a reasonable price for the chopstick set I wanted. As Barbara says, the haggling is most of the fun!

We reluctantly said goodbye to China and prepared ourselves for the long flight home. If you have not been to China, consider putting it on your bucket list. It is a destination that offers all that makes international travel interesting and enjoyable.

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